This week, my daughter Ashley (the chef, see her blog) made some peach and raspberry preserves. Sweating away in the kitchen over a steaming pot, made me remember summer kitchens of my childhood -- and a poem I had written a while ago about that experience.
Peaches for Ashley
Come back with me to twelve, my lovely one,
roll out of bed, knowing Dad is on his way back
from the Buffalo market, car and trunk loaded
with five bushels of ripe peaches. Knowing we
have missed the ride that started at 4 a.m. and the
egg salad sandwiches and Tang in the cooler.
But we will not miss the kitchen, still cool and clean.
We will not miss hearing Mom tell us to eat breakfast
quick and wash those jars. You’d count with me
till we got close to one hundred and wonder
how we would fill these all in one day. How we
would eat these all in one winter.
Then push
your hand into the cavity of the canning jar, swish
the soapy water, call it clean. Again and again. Watch
Mom rinse the jars with boiling water. Feel the heat.
Feel the heat that will get sticky and sweet with peaches.
If you were there then you would know, Ashley,
how it would go, and you would ache to do the next
job—I know it seems silly to you, that I’d want to do
more than just measure the cup of sugar, slide it
smoothly to the bottom of each jar. Maybe you’d
understand my private glee at my brother’s absence
when I got to layer peach halves in the jars,
nesting one orange semiglobe on top of another.
I’d let you pour the water into the filled jars, and
then I’d screw on the canning ring and lid.
But here are the peaches. Here is the pot of boiling water.
Here the colander to dip the peaches, scald them half
a minute. Then paring knife them naked, dig out their pits.
Those are jobs for Mom and Dad, my fingers much too
tender for such hot work. I can only watch
and fill my jars, and sneak a peach or two from the bowl
of imperfects next to mother’s station. These we
will savor at night on shortcake with whipped cream.
But now, even without sugar, they are honey, they
are nectar. And the steam of boiling pots of water
tears down the side of my face. I mop my cheeks, sticky hands,
and my sweat is sweet and salty. As yours would be.
Later we two would carry the jars that have been submerged
in a boiling bath of water, these cooled and orange filled
jars, to the basement and shelve them. We would know
we had stored sun for dark winter suppers, desserts of peach
cobbler, peach shortcake, peaches in a bowl. And we would
remember hot July, sweet sweaty canning days,
stomachs bloated with too many peach pieces.
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